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The selected pan was a 1958 King pin pan. It was chosen because of the thicker tunnel and the king pin front end. The pan itself had been sandblasted and powder coated by the previous owner so there was far less work to do than there could have been.
| The pan sat in Brad's garage while it was being built. Since the body is a LWB ( 4 seater) we didn't have to shorten it like a Manx. Once there it was stripped bare so work could begin. | |
| As luck would have it the pan we tracked down
was actually one Brad had built 5 years ago for another project. He then
sold it to a guy who was going to build a Baja. This didn't happen and it
sat under the guys house for the next 5 years until I bought it. This
meant that the pan already had the type 3 IRS pivot boxes welded in to it
which saved some time and money. From here a type 3 rear end was added to
get the twin spring plates and larger rear brakes. A 24mm kombi wheel
cylinder was used to get better brakes ( Idea from Mike Sharp) . Once the
trailing arms were bolted in the rear brake lines were relocated onto the
top of the arms. This is done so that the brake lines don't get hit by
rocks and stuff. It takes a little effort but when building from scratch
it is worth it. Once it is done they should last forever. A Superbug
front flex hose is then used to join it all up.
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| A 1600 kombi box was chosen to keep the gear
ratios right for bigger rear tyres and ensure that strength was maintained.
In order to fit it in the beetle pan I had it modified by Custom
Off-road. This modification included soft mounting the gearbox and
front and rear straps. With this setup I will run a Kombi CV on the box
and a beetle CV on the stub axles. These are both on a standard beetle
axles which has been machined and drilled to allow for the larger cv and
shorter axle. A kombi box means the axles need to be 20mm shorter. As you
can see it all fits very nicely and has heaps of strength.
The only other thing to do was modify the gear selector to meet the kombi box nose cone which sits about 30mm higher. |
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| Now I had good rear brakes I wanted good front ones. I chose to use standard beetle disc rotors and calipers so parts were available. This was done by getting the disc machined to fit the king pin axle and using different bearing sizes to standard. A caliper adapter was also added. All the parts were sourced from Custom Off-Road. An early flex hose is retained and no backing plat is used. | |
| To get more height from the front the beam was cut and rotated. If you look at the picture you can see the grub screws have been moved from standard. They are also off-set. This allows for a more progressive spring rate with out the harsh ride some buggies have. Compensation plates have also been welde on to ensure the beam stays strong. | |
| A 3" lift kit has been fabricated onto the pan from 75 x 30 x 4mm RHS. This will be tied into the front beams and also the rear torsion housing to increase strength. | |
| A dual circuit golf master cylinder has been used to get better braking and also remove the hassle of having brake fluid in a seperate container. | |
| You can see the height of the kombi box and the lift kit as it goes over the tunnel. This part is still to be welded up and sealed. | |
| A 4" hole is cut in the tunnel to allow easy access to clutch cable. This area is then reinforced with 4 mm strap to ensure that it does not loose any strength. An alloy cover plate is then made up so stuff doesn't fall in here. The hole also provides a great place to stash spare cables and rags. Simply grease them up and wrap them in a plastic bag, it keeps them out the way till they are needed. | |
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If you look at the rear torsion tubes you can see the gussets that have been welded onto the torsion tubes and lift kit. This give heaps of strength to the torsion tube. If you look at a standard pan you will see that they are only joined by a 4mm tab on the outside. This is easily broken when you go off-road which will allow the torsion tube to bend |
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The finished pan on the way to meet the body for the first time, look at that clearance. The front tyres will be 2" larger on the actual buggy but are still at the shop. They are 215x75x15 and will run on a 15 x 5.5" rim. The rears are 31 x 10.5 on a 15 x 8" rim. Chrome dress rims with VW hubcaps are then added for a different look |
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The rear end looks very tough with its tyres on. The beefed up IRS and kombi box is monstered by them. The cv's and axles will be added after the pan has been cold galvanised. |
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Walla, 1 pan ready to go. You can see here the front wheels look very small compared to the rear wheels. The 215's will bring it all back into proportion. |