In order to lift the front end you need to make sure that there is enough room for the tie rod to clear. Otherwise it will end up bent and that will not only wreck your wheel alignment but also make steering very hard. If have seen this done a few ways. One way is to bend the tie rod, this changes the geometry of the steering and allows one tie rod to flex more than the other. Another way it to bash it down with a hammer. This warks but looks very rough and is very hard if using an early pan due to the thickness of the tunnel. 

My preffered method is to cut out the frame head and weld in some 3" pipe with a 4mm wall. This is not real hard to do if you are a competant weld and have an angle grinder and a bit of time.

	Step 1 :  Firstly mark out where the tie rod will sit on full lock each way. It is best to undo your front shockies and jack the front end in the air to allow the front to get full down travel. Then simply turn the wheels fully to the left and scribe the tie rod line , then repeat to the left. You should now have a left extreme and a right extreme and two lines scribed on the tunnel.
	Step 2 : once you have done the marking cut the lines with an angle grinder. I use a 9" but a 4" will do. Once they are cut place the tie rod back on and check that you have given it enough room.
	Step 3: You can then cut across the ends and fold them up to get to the inner tunnel. Cut it is the same style. Once it is all cut, once again put in the tie rod and swing the wheels from left to right. Ensure that there is at least 6mm between the tie rod and tunnel at all times. Then weld the inner tunnel to the outer tunnel at the front and rear of the hole.
	Step 4: Now you can weld in the half cut 3" pipe. This give the tunnel back its strength. Tack it in place first and make sure everything still clears. If it doesn't cut some more metal. Once you are happy weld the pipe solid and neaten up with a grinder if required.
	As you can see from the side view it allows quite  a lot of room for the tie rod to move. Even with all this extra room the tie rod is still only 2 - 4 mm from the metal on full travel and right hand lock. It will ,however, be enough to stop the rod hitting.
	The finished product. A bit of kill rust and when she dries some road tar and it looks like factory .....