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MANX 1 - THE SEMI STOCKER

brad @ offroadvw.net

MANX 1 - Low Budget Bush Basher

Manx 1 will be the semi stock Manx, I say semi stock because I will be changing several thing that will make it not all stock. These changes are subtle and made because I either have the parts lying around or because I thought it would make it a better buggy to drive without going overboard like Manx 2.

I purchased the Manx in early 2000. I bought it as it was almost complete and I thought I may need some parts for my other projects. They are hard to come by when you need them so I thought I would grab it while it was there. Once I got her home and went over it, I decided she was to good to turn into parts. So I decided to get her going to use while Manx 2 was being built.

manxfront.jpg (39459 bytes) This is more or less how I got it. The only difference is the adjustable front beam and new king and link pins. The old beam was cracked and this was all I had. The king and link pins were shagged and new ones were needed for road worthy. She still has the old fuel tank with the neck moved to the back corner. This allows you to fill the entire tank and not just the front half.
redmanxrear.jpg (18543 bytes) It had a 1600TP engine in it with a 009 dizzy, 12V Generator, chrome 36hp shroud with dog house and a few alloy bolt on bits. The exhaust is a 4 in to 1 with a hotdog. I will be adding a rear cage and bar to make it legal in Queens land. The rear tyres are 31 x 10.5 mudders and they run through a 1200cc gearbox. The rear brakes are type 3 5 stud and I have added wheel studs to make changing rear wheels a little easier.
manxsidetopon.jpg (39540 bytes) The Manx came with a complete top. It is surprisingly good condition and will only require a few clips to be spot on. There is a half made roll cage inside along with some fiberglass half bucket seat. The cage will be completed and complianced and the seats will be swapped for a set from a Mitsubishi Cordia Turbo. You can see the blue rear drums from the type 3 in the centre of the wheels.
frontbar.jpg (11839 bytes) The front bar will mount on the torsion bars at the front of the Buggy. It will give me a place to hang some spotlights as well as mount the bash plate. A bash plate is a great idea if the buggy is to be used off-road as it not only protects the front from rocks and sand but it gives a nice smoth surface to limit hang up and catching.
rearcage.jpg (24479 bytes) The rear cage mounts onto the rear torsion bars, the top shock mounts and the rear forks. It gives a good place to tow from and a tow ball will be fitted. It will also be getting a full length bash plate to help minimise catch up as well as limit damage caused by rocks and sticks. It also has a full cage to keep people away from hot and moving things on the engine. This is required in Queensland by law.
tunnelhole.jpg (38009 bytes) The previous owner has cut a hole in the tunnel to get to the clutch cable, right idea but he hasn't added compensation plates to stop cracking. The tunnel has the some small stress cracks which will be fixed but adding plates around the hole.

cuttunnel.jpg (36465 bytes)
Clearance the tunnel

golfmc.jpg (36887 bytes)
Fitting a golf Master Cylinder

bradmanx2.jpg (10086 bytes) buggyshot.jpg (15511 bytes)  

 

I will add more details and pictures as the project progresses. Future plans will be as follows:

- clearance the front of the tunnel to allow the lifted beam to clear the tie rods.
- Re-wire and install all electrics required for registration. I will be using a gauge cluster from a VW Golf.
- Cut the rust out of the pan and weld in new sheet metal, prime the pan and give her heaps of tar and rust proofing.
- Give the gel coat a good polish and clean the engine and gearbox and check for leaks.
- Install dual circuit brakes for safety and stopping power
- Add the front and rear bar work, suit bars and front and rear alloy bash plates.

For now that is all I can think of. the rest will just be little jobs to make it roadworthy and make me happy to drive it. Dual circuit brakes aren't required but I feel they are much safer. With the type 3 rear drums they should give a good combination of stopping power and good pedal.